Sewing-machine



C. H. T. HAGELS TEIN.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAR. 11, 1918- Patented Nov. 1, 1921'.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 1- Flg. 1.

\nvenior. Chfisncm HT. Hagelsreifl by {6M Maw C. H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAR. 11, 1918.

Patented Nov. 1, 1921.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

\nveniov.

Chrisflun HT. Hugdsiein y W M W C. H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAR. 1!, 1918.

1 395,274, Patented Nov. 1,1921.

' 4 SHEETS-SHEET 3- F1g5. V

C. H. T. HAGELSTEIN.

SEWING MACHINE. APPLICATION FILED MAR. 11, I918- Patented Nov. 1, 1921.

4 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

1 1 I l I IN I I \nvenior. Chrishan H. T. Hugdsrain v vs.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE.

CHRISTIAN H. T. HAG-ELSTEIN, OF BOSTON", MASSACHUSETTS, ASSIGNOR TO THE REECE BUTTON HOLE MACHINE COMPANY, OF BOSTON, MASSACHUSETTS, A

CORPORATION OF MAINE.

SEWING-MACHINE.

Original application filed August 17, 1914, Serial No. 857,053. Patent No. 1,264,921, dated May 7, 1918.

Divided and this application filed March 11, 1918.

To all whom it may concern.

Be it known that I, CHRISTIAN H. T. HA- GELSTEIN, a citizen of the United States, residing at Boston, county of Suffolk State of Massachusetts, have invented an lmprovement in Sewing-Machines, of which the fol lowing description, in connection with the accompanying drawing, is a specification, like characters on the drawing representing like parts.

This invention relates to sewing machines and especially to sewing machines of the twothread type, and the principal object of the invention is to provide a novel device for cutting the threads close to the work at the end of the stitching operation.

In the operation of some two-thread sewing machines, theneedle controlling the up per thread inserts a loop of upper thread through the work and then the rotary or oscillatory shuttle of the under-thread-handling mechanism takes this loop and carries the under thread therethrough thereby to concatenate the upper and lower threads.

My improved thread-cutting device is provided with a thread selector, which operates during the formation of the last stitch and while the shuttle is being inserted through the loop of needle thread, to separate the shuttle thread and the end of the needle thread which leads to the work from the other end of the needle thread, and then to sever the separated ends closeto the work, thereby leaving beneath the .work alength of needle thread which. formerly constituted,

the loop of needle thread. This length of needlethread provides a sufficient length to insure the correct formation of the first stitches when the stitching operation begins again.

My invention is of such a nature that it may be used in connection with a variety of two-thread sewing machines. I have, however, herein chosen to illustrate it as it might be used in connection with a sewing machine of the type shown in my co-pending application Se. No. 857,053, filed August 17, 191 1 patented May 7, 1918, Number 1,264,921, of which the present application is a division.

In the drawings, Figure 1 in a side view of a sewing machine such as illustrated in my above-mentioned co-pending application, Se. No. 857,053, and having my improvements applied thereto;

Serial No. 221,706.

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary perspective view showing the operation of the thread-cutting mechanism;

Figs. 3 and 4 are bottom plan views of the sewing machine illustrating the thread-cutting device in different ositions, several of the parts being omitted rom Fig. 4;

Fig. 5 is a top plan view of the sewing machine with a part of the base broken out;

Fig. 6 in a side view with a part of the base broken out;

Fig. 7 is an enlarged View on the line 77, Fig. 5;

Fig. 8 is an enlarged detail View of the thread-cutting mechanism;

Fig. 9 is a section on the line 9-9, Fig. 8;

Fig. 10 is a View similar to Fig. 7 showing a different embodiment of the invention;

Patented Nov. 1, 1921.

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary plan view of ig. 12 is a view of the cutting shears i Fig. 13 is a detail of the finger for operating the thread selector and thread cutter.

The sewing machine herein illustrated is one designed for inserting reinforcing stitches 1 and 2 at the ends of the buttonhole 3, or at the ends of pocket openings in a garment, or at any other place where such reinforcing is necessary.

The stitch-forming mechanism by which the stitches 1 and 2 are formed comprises the usual eye-pointed needle 4 carried by a reciprocating needle bar 9 and a shuttle 5 which may be either a rotary or an oscillatory ing from the under clamping member 20 and is acted upon by a spring 110 which tends to hold it in clamping position. The rear end of the upper clamping member has a stud 50 depending therefrom which extends through a block 103 slidably mounted in ways 104. in

the bed frame 131. Said stud is connected to an arm 10G carried by a shaft 107 so that turning movement of the shaft will operate through the stud 50 to raise the clamp 20.

Inthe construction herein shown means are provided for giving the work clamp a vibratory motion in two different directions so that the stitching which results will consist of relatively long stitches 1 extending transversely of the button-hole and then a series of shorter stitches 2 which cross the long stitches at right angles. These two movements of the work clamp are derived from the cam member 27 which is connected to and driven from the driving shaft 6 by means of the worm 32 which meshes with worm teeth 30 on said cam. This cam 27 is provided on its under side with a cam groove 26 in which operates a roll 47 carried by an arm 46 fast on a stud 45. Said stud has another arm 44 thereon which is connected by a link 42 to an elbow lever 39 pivotally mounted at 40, said elbow-lever being connected by the link 37 with the work clamp. The cam groove26 is provided with the sinuous portion 48 and with the stepped portion 49. WVhile the roll 47 is operating in the sinuous portion, the work clamp will be given a sidewise lateral. reciprocating movement, thus forming the long stitches 1 shown in Fig. 2. lVhile the roll 47 .is on the stepped portion 49 of the cam, the work clamp will have a lateral feeding movement.

The fore-and-aft jog ing movement of the work clamp by whic the short stitches 2 are formed is derived from the cam groove 28 in the upper surface of the cam 27. This cam groove receives a roll 530 carried on apivoted arm 51 which arm is connected by a. link 53 to another arm 54 pivoted at 55 and connected to the stud 50. The cam groove 28 is provided with a sinuousportion 57 and with the concentric portion 56. While the roll 530 is operating in the sinuous portion 57, the work clamp will have a fore-and-aft vibratory movement thereby to formthe stitches 2, said work clamp being held from fore-and-aft movement while the roll 530 is in the concentric portion 56 of the cam groove. The two cams are so arranged that the lateral vibratory movement of'the work clamp derived from the sinuous portion 48 of the cam groove 26 will occur while the clam is held from ,fore-and-aft move ment by t e concentric portion 56 of the cam groove 28, and when the stitches 1 have been formed, then the sinuous portion 57 of the cam groove 28 becomes operative to give the work clamp a fore-and-aft movement, and during this time the stepped portion 49 of the cam groove 27 gives the work clamp a lateral feeding movement.

The above is a briefreference to a sewing machine of the type illustrated in my said co-pending application, but which is sufiicient for a proper understanding of the present invention which relates to the means for severing the thread beneath the work at the end of the stitching operation.

In sewing machines of this general type. the needle 4 inserts a loop 71 of needle thread 72 through the fabric and the shuttle 5 is then carried through said loop thereby to concatenate the shuttle thread 73 with the needle thread. My thread-severing device is arranged to sever the shuttle thread 73 and the side 74 of the needle thread loop 71 which leads into thecloth at the time that the last loop is being formed, this operation being performed automatically so that when the machine comes to rest at the end of its cycle of operations the thread'has been completely severed and the work can be removed from the clamp without drawin out any length of thread from the shutt e or needle. My thread-severing device comprises a thread selector which operates during the formation of the last stitch to select the two ends 73, 74, see Fig. 2, and carry said ends laterally into position to be engaged by a thread cutter. This thread-selecting device is shown as a curved member 75 provided at its end with a thread-receiving notch 76. This selecting member is pivotally mounted beneath the bed plate, on a shaft 77, and is acted upon by a spring 78 which tends normally to throw it into its operative position shown'in Figs. 5 and 8. The shaft 77 has fast thereon'an arm 180 having a finger 181 which engages the thread selector 75 as the shaft is turned clock-wise Fig. 8 and thereby swings said selector into its inoperative position shown in dotted lines Fig. 8. During the formation of the stitches this thread-selecting device is held in said inoperative position by means of a cam 79 herein shown as rigid with the cam 27. For this purpose the shaft 77 hasrigid therewith an arm 80 which is connected by a link 81 to a lever 82 pivoted at 83 apdhavin an ar 84 to enga e the perip iery of th: cam 79 This cam l ias the rise 86, concentric portion 85 and the fall 87. When the high concentric portion 85 engages the arm 84, as seen in Fig. 4, the thread selector 75 will be held out of the way of the stitchoperating mechanism, as seen in Fig. 4, and in dotted lines Fig. 8. The cam 79 is so positioned that during the formationof the last stitch andwhile the shuttle 5 is being inserted through the needle loop 71 of the last stitch, the portion 87 of the cam comes into position to permit .the arm 84 to ride theredown under the'infiuence ofthe spring 171, and as this occurs the spring 78 comes into play to move the thread selector 75 into the position shown in dotted lines Figs. 2 and 5 and full lines Figs. 8 and 9. At this time the shuttle'and needle threads have approximately the position shown in Fig. 2, that is, the loop 71 of the needle thread is spread and the shuttle is passing therethrough while the shuttle thread 73 extends from the shuttle 5 through the guide 88 to the Work. The shape and operation of the thread selector 75 is such that when it moves from its normal or dotted, line position Fig. 8 into its full line position, or into the dotted line position Fig. 2, the thread ends 73 and 74 will be caught in the notch 76 and carried thereby laterally and to one side of the sup ply end of the loop 71. The initial movement of the thread selector into the position shown in F ig. 2 is accomplished while the shuttle is passing through the loop 71 and the final movement into the dotted line position Fig. 2,.or the full line position Figs.

.8 and 9 is accomplished after the needle loop 71 has passed over the shuttle and while there is considerable consequent slack in said loop. llt will be noted that the inclined portion 87 of the cam 79 is stepped so i that the movement'of the selector 75 will be an intermittent movement. This is to per-' mit the initial movement into the position shown in Fig. 2, while the needle loop 71 is comparatively taut by the passage of the shuttle therethrough and then to restrain the selector 75 from further movement until the shuttle has passed through the loop and the latter is slack before the member 75 has its complete movement.

When the thread ends have been brought laterally into the dotted line position Fig. 2 or into the full line position Figs. 8 and 9, they are acted upon by a thread-cutting device herein shown as two shearing blades 89 that are pivotally connected together at 90. These shearing blades are normally open, as shown in Fig. 2, to receive the thread ends 73 and 74, and when these ends have been carried between the blades, said blades are closed, as shown in Fig. 8, thereby to sever the threads. While these shearing blades can be operated in any suitable way, I have herein illustrated means actuated by the devices that control the thread selector 7 5 for controlling the movements of the shearing blades. These blades are provided with extensions 91 having slots 92 therein in which slots operates a pin 93 carried by a block 97 that is slidably mounted on a guiding member 95 secured to the base of the machine. When this block 97 is moved to the, left Fig. 8 into the dotted line position, the engagement of the pin 93 in the slots 92 will open the cutting blades, and this is the normal position of the parts while the stitches the portion 87 of the cam 79 allows the thread selector to swing into thread-selecting position, said finger 98 will not engage the block 97 until after the thread ends 73 and 74 have been carried between the shearing members 89, the movement of the block 97 occurring after the final movement of the thread selector. The threads will thus always be placed between the shearing blades before they are closed. WVhen the thread selector is moved back into its dotted line position Fig. 8, the toe 99 thereof engages a shoulder 100 on the block 97v and moves the latter toward the left Fig. 8thereby opening the cutting blades again.

101 indicates an adjustable stop adapted to limit the forward movement of the selector 75.

Any suitable driving mechanism for the shaft 6 may beemployed and any usual stop motion may be employed to bring the shaft 6 to rest whenever the worm gear 30 has made one complete revolution and the cycle of operations is complete. I have not, however, illustrated any particular stop motion herein.

The above-described movement of the thread selector from the 'full line position Fig. 2 into the dotted line position causes both the shuttle and the needle thread to be drawn oft somewhat. The needle thread passes through the usual tension device 165 by which the tension is applied to the needle thread. Themovement of the thread selector from the full to the dotted line position is a comparatively rapid one, and in order to obviate any danger that the needle thread will become broken during this movement, 1 have provided means for releasing This actuator 161 is connected to a rod 160 that in turn is pivotally connected to a lever 159 situated within the overhanging arm and pivoted thereto at 158. {This lever is connected at its lower end to the arm 37 by means of a connecting member 157. The

arm 37 is provided with a roll 61, and the I cam 27 is provided with a notch63 situated so that just as the machine is coming to rest at the end of a' stitching operation, said notch will be in line with theroll. The arm 37 is acted on by a spring 70 which gives said arm 37 a slight backward movement when the notch comes in line with the roll, and this backward movement operates through the connection'157 and lever 159 to separate thetension disks, thus relieving the tension on the needle thread. When the machine is set in operation and the cam member 27 is turned to carry the notch 63 out of line with the roll'61, the arm 37 is moved forwardly thereby withdrawing the actuator 161 from the end of the stem 162 so as to allow the friction to operate in usual manner. This is, the position of the parts while the sewing operation is proceeding, but as soon as the sewing is completed and the notch 63 has come opposite the roll 61, then the tension is relieved on the needle thread. It is at this time that the thread selectoroperates so that with the construction above described the tension on the needle thread will be automaticallyv relieved at the time that the needle thread is moved laterally by the thread selector.

140 is a usual take-up which acts on the needle thread at the proper time in the cycle of operations to take up the slack therein. This take-up is in the form of a lever pivotally connected to the overhanging arm 8 at 141 and connected to a connecting member 142 which in turn is connected to anactuating lever 14:3 pivoted to the overhanging arm at 144. This lever carries at its lower end a. roll which operates in the cam groove 145 formed in a cam member 146. I have herein shown this cam member 146 as mounted on. the perlphery of the crank disk 13 by which,

the shuttle is oscillated, so that the take-up gwill be operated in timed relation with the shown in Fig. 5 directly over the work support and over the thread-cutting mechanism. The work-support is provided with the removable plate 132 which covers the thread cutting mechanism. When said cover plate is removed, the thread-cutting mechanism is readily accessible.

In Figs. 10 and 12, I have shown a con struction which permits the work clamp to be swung laterally about the stud 50 when ever it. is desired to remove the plate 16 and thus gain access to the thread-cutting mechanism. In the construction shown in Figs. 10 and 12, the under clamping member 20 is provided with a plate 133 which is detachably secured by means of screws 136 to the head 134 of a stud 135 that extends through the bed frame 131 and is secured to'the arm 37. By removing the screws 36', the work- With this construction the clamp- .a needle, a shuttle and means for operating them, of a pivotally-mounted, curved thread selector, means for actuating said selector during the formation of the last stitch to select and. carry laterally simultaneously both the shuttle thread and the end of the needle thread loop that extends to the work,

and a pair of pivotally mounted cooperating cutting members to "sever said threads.

2. In a sewing machine, the combination with a stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a shuttle and means for operating them, of a thread selector, means for actuating said selector during the" formation of the last stitch. to select and carry laterally simultaneously both the shuttle thread and the end of the needle thread loop that extends to the work, and other means actuated by the thread selector to sever said threads.

3. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a shuttle and means for operating them, of means operative during the formation of the last stitch to separate simultaneously from the supply end of the needle thread loop both the shuttle thread and the other side of said loop, and other means actuated by said thread-separating means to sever the threads so separated.

4. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a shuttle and means for operating them, of a pair of pivotally-mounted cooperative cutting members, a. thread selector operative during the formation of the last stitch to carry the shuttle thread and the side of the loopv of needle thread that leads to the work into position to be acted upon by said cutting members, and means to actuate said cutting members.

5. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a, shuttle and means for operating them, of a pair of pivotally-mounted cooperating cutting members, a thread selector operative during the formation of the last stitch to carry theshuttle' thread and the side of the loop of needle thread that leads to the work into position to be acted upon by said cutting members, and means to actuate said cutting members by the thread selector.

6. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a needle and a shuttle and means for operating them, of a tension for the needle thread, means operative during the formation of the last stitch to separate both the shuttle thread and the end of the needle thread loop ating cutting members to sever said separated threads, and means to relieve the tension on the needle thread when the, threads are thus separated.

7. In a sewing machine, the combination 1 with stitch-forming mechanism including a needle and a shuttle and means for operating them, of a tension for the needle thread, means operative automatically during the formation of the last stitch to engage and carry laterally the shuttle thread and the end of the loop of needle thread that leads to the work, 'pivotally -mounted cooperating cutting members to sever said threads, and

means to relieve the tension on the needle thread when it is thus carried laterally.

8. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a needle and shuttle and means for operating them, of a tension for the needle thread, a thread selector,-means for actuating said selector during the formation of the last stitch to select and carry laterally both the shuttle thread and the end of the needle thread loop that extends to the work,-pivot ally-mounted cooperating cutting members to sever said threads, and means to relieve the tension on the needle thread while it is acted on by the.- thread selector.

9. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a shuttle and means for operating them, of means operative during the formation of the last stitch to engage and carry laterally both the shuttle thread and the end of the loop of needle thread that leads to the work, a pair of pivotally-mounted cooperative cutting members to sever said threads. p

10. In a sewing machine, the combination with stitch-forming mechanism, including a needle, a shuttle and operating'means therefor, of means operative while the shuttle is passing through the loop of needle thread during the formation of the last stitch to engage and carry laterally simultaneously both the shuttle thread and the end of the needle thread loop that extends to the work, and pivotally-mounted cooperating cutting members to sever said threads.

11. In a sewing machine, the combination I with stitch-forming mechanism including a needle, a shuttle and means'for operating them, of a pair of pivotally-mounted cooperative cutting members, a thread selector operative during the formation of the last stitch to carry the side of the loop of needle thread that leads to the work into position to be acted upon by said members, and means to actuate saidcutting members automatically.

In testimony whereof, I have signed my name to this specificatlon.

CHRISTIAN H; T. HAGELSTEIN. 

